12V Safety and Control: Difference between revisions

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(Created page with "My BIAS transformer was freshly replaced - in addition to the negative tube-bias voltage, this transformer also provides 12VAC for safety, and control. To ensure trouble-free...")
 
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File:12v_control_test.jpg|Good! Injecting 12V onto CR206 anode allows K101 Antenna Change Over Relay to be controlled by the rear panel. Maximum current-draw is 0.31A with K101 and K205 engaged.
File:12v_control_test.jpg|Good! Injecting 12V onto CR206 anode allows K101 Antenna Change Over Relay to be controlled by the rear panel. Maximum current-draw is 0.31A with K101 and K205 engaged.
File:12v_safety_interlock_test.jpg|More Good! Injecting 12V onto C211b let me try the "ON" button, and watch K203 engage! Maximum current-draw with K203 engaged was 0.21A.
File:12v_safety_interlock_test.jpg|More Good! Injecting 12V onto C211b let me try the "ON" button, and watch K203 engage! Maximum current-draw with K203 engaged was 0.21A.
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Then Badness :-( Applying 12V to the terminal-strip at the back of the Relay Shelf, where T203 12V winding will eventually connect, caused over-current (3 amps!) trip. Clearly, something was unhappy. At this point, I just introduced about 24" of wire, and the panel-lights.
I hadn't planned to pull the front-panel yet, but now I had to. I found panel-light connections shorting - solidly.

APPARENTLY my 30S-1 is missing some black sleeving on the dial-sockets, which led to the full-shorting of the 12V transformer. Looking also at the broken/repaired LOAD dial, I wonder if a previous-owner tried to sneak the bulb out from behind the dial, breaking it in the process and also losing the essential sleeve insulator :-O Did abundant grief follow a simple bulb-change?!?!?!

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File:12v_lamp_short.jpg|Behind the front panel, I found shorted socket-connections, and (behind the dials) contact between the clip-socket-contacts and the chassis! I must say, I never expected a deadly-serious problem in such a simple area as a light-bulb :-O
File:Improved_dial_lighting.jpg|I re-soldered all light-connections, adding heatshrink sleeves over every terminal. I added large tubing over the entire socket for the two dial-bulbs. I sleeved the interconnecting wires to prevent wire-chafing. I added judicious bits of electrical-tape to prevent bracket-contact.
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Revision as of 17:38, 12 August 2020

My BIAS transformer was freshly replaced - in addition to the negative tube-bias voltage, this transformer also provides 12VAC for safety, and control. To ensure trouble-free operation in this 12V safety and control, I did not initally hook up the BIAS transformer's 12VAC secondary, but rather I selectively applied a current-limited bench-supply.

My test strategy:

  • Use the bench-supply to inject 12V upwind of CR206, to verify wiring K203 through K101 Antenna Change-Over Relay, to the rear-panel T/R RCA-jack.
  • Inject 12V downwind of CR209, and selectively bypass S205 Lower Door Safety Switch, and the 3-min timer K202, and see if pressing S203 "ON" switch will engage relay K203
  • Inject 12V where the transformer will connect, bringing up all lights, allowing HV Relay to be enaged with front-panel "ON", and allowing the rear T/R jack to switch the antenna once the HV Relay has switched. The whole 12V enchilada :-)


Then Badness :-( Applying 12V to the terminal-strip at the back of the Relay Shelf, where T203 12V winding will eventually connect, caused over-current (3 amps!) trip. Clearly, something was unhappy. At this point, I just introduced about 24" of wire, and the panel-lights. I hadn't planned to pull the front-panel yet, but now I had to. I found panel-light connections shorting - solidly.

APPARENTLY my 30S-1 is missing some black sleeving on the dial-sockets, which led to the full-shorting of the 12V transformer. Looking also at the broken/repaired LOAD dial, I wonder if a previous-owner tried to sneak the bulb out from behind the dial, breaking it in the process and also losing the essential sleeve insulator :-O Did abundant grief follow a simple bulb-change?!?!?!