Updates and Changes - Revision history

Gordonp: /* Dial Lights "ON" when Amp is Ready */

2025-01-17T01:53:05Z

Dial Lights "ON" when Amp is Ready

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:53, 17 January 2025
Line 154:		Line 154:
	I re-wired the dial-lights so they will illuminate only after the warm-up delay has passed and K202 closes. Not only does this indicate visually that the amp has completed the 3min warm-up and ready to hit the "ON" push-button, but it also confirms 12V is available to energize K203 - maybe this will help troubleshooting one day.		I re-wired the dial-lights so they will illuminate only after the warm-up delay has passed and K202 closes. Not only does this indicate visually that the amp has completed the 3min warm-up and ready to hit the "ON" push-button, but it also confirms 12V is available to energize K203 - maybe this will help troubleshooting one day.
	(Technical note: this "delay completed" lighting moves the dial bulbs from 12VAC to ~15VDC operation).		(Technical note: this "delay completed" lighting moves the dial bulbs from 12VAC to ~15VDC operation).

			I sourced this "ready-to-go" supply from the panel-mounted S208 "OFF" pushbutton. The outermost terminal loses it's 15VDC momentarily when S208 is pushed, so I used the innermost terminal (next to the red "ON" light) which remains live always (well, after 3min warm-up).

	Final touch for the dial-light mod: hand-lacing!		Final touch for the dial-light mod: hand-lacing!

Gordonp: /* LEDs */

2025-01-17T01:48:03Z

LEDs

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:48, 17 January 2025
Line 163:		Line 163:
	I replaced the dial-bulbs with some ubiquitous "pinball" bulbs, meant to replace #44 and #47 incandescent bulbs. My particular LED bulbs have a diode-bridge in the base and are DC-polarity insensitive. However, they were designed to operate on 6.3VAC, not my ~8VDC :-O At first, they were great and very bright. After a while, they began to "stutter" - not really "flicker" and certainly in no relation to any supply-ripple, but a slower, cyclical blink-stutter, sometimes opposite to each other. Hmmm...		I replaced the dial-bulbs with some ubiquitous "pinball" bulbs, meant to replace #44 and #47 incandescent bulbs. My particular LED bulbs have a diode-bridge in the base and are DC-polarity insensitive. However, they were designed to operate on 6.3VAC, not my ~8VDC :-O At first, they were great and very bright. After a while, they began to "stutter" - not really "flicker" and certainly in no relation to any supply-ripple, but a slower, cyclical blink-stutter, sometimes opposite to each other. Hmmm...

	I dug in: checked all connections, cleaned the bulb-socket contacts, bypassed all safety and thermal-timer connections and otherwise made sure the 30S-1 itself didn't generate the flicker at any point in the 12VAC circuitry. Then, I got out the oscilloscope, to check things: the mid-voltage between the LEDs was erratic and crazy. From this, I conjectured the LED bulbs were failing internally, possibly due to overheating. Replacing both the high- and low-side bulbs brought immediate relief and proper operation, but I knew it would last ...		I dug in: checked all connections, cleaned the bulb-socket contacts, bypassed all safety and thermal-timer connections and otherwise made sure the 30S-1 itself didn't generate the flicker at any point in the 12VAC circuitry. Then, I got out the oscilloscope, to check things: the mid-voltage between the LEDs was erratic and crazy. From this, I conjectured the LED bulbs were failing internally, possibly due to overheating. Replacing both the high- and low-side bulbs brought immediate relief and proper operation, but I knew it would not last ...

	So - from my always-HOT side of S208 (which supplies the dial-LED bulbs) I added a 5.1V zener diode, effectively knocking the voltage down something like 5.5V actual. This results in the pair of LEDs receiving ~10V total, or ~5V across each. This reduction from 6.3VAc to 5VDC resulted in a less-bright and more-yellowish light... which I find <b>AWESOME</b>!! And I hope they'll last a very long time.		So - from my always-HOT side of S208 (which supplies the dial-LED bulbs) I added a 5.1V zener diode, effectively knocking the voltage down something like 5.5V actual. This results in the pair of LEDs receiving ~10V total, or ~5V across each. This reduction from 6.3VAc to 5VDC resulted in a less-bright and more-yellowish light... which I find <b>AWESOME</b>!! And I hope they'll last a very long time.

Gordonp: /* LEDs */

2025-01-17T01:47:30Z

LEDs

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:47, 17 January 2025
Line 161:		Line 161:
	===LEDs===		===LEDs===
	So, when I mentioned above that the dial-bulbs are now operating from ~15VDC ...		So, when I mentioned above that the dial-bulbs are now operating from ~15VDC ...
	I replaced the dial-bulbs with some ubiquitous "pinball" bulbs, meant to replace #44 and #47 incandescent bulbs. My particular LED bulbs have a diode-bridge in the base and are DC-polarity insensitive. However, they were designed to operate on 6.3VAC, not my ~8VDC :-O At first, they were great and very bright. After a while, they began to "stutter" - not really "flicker" and certainly in no relation to ~~the~~ ripple, but a slower, cyclical, sometimes opposite to each other. Hmmm...		I replaced the dial-bulbs with some ubiquitous "pinball" bulbs, meant to replace #44 and #47 incandescent bulbs. My particular LED bulbs have a diode-bridge in the base and are DC-polarity insensitive. However, they were designed to operate on 6.3VAC, not my ~8VDC :-O At first, they were great and very bright. After a while, they began to "stutter" - not really "flicker" and certainly in no relation to any supply-ripple, but a slower, cyclical blink-stutter, sometimes opposite to each other. Hmmm...

	I dug in: checked all connections, cleaned the bulb-socket contacts, bypassed all safety and thermal-timer connections and otherwise made sure the 30S-1 itself didn't generate the flicker at any point in the 12VAC circuitry. Then, I got out the oscilloscope, to check things: the mid-voltage between the LEDs was erratic and crazy. From this, I conjectured the LED bulbs were failing internally, possibly due to overheating. Replacing both the high- and low-side bulbs brought immediate relief and proper operation, but I knew it would last ...		I dug in: checked all connections, cleaned the bulb-socket contacts, bypassed all safety and thermal-timer connections and otherwise made sure the 30S-1 itself didn't generate the flicker at any point in the 12VAC circuitry. Then, I got out the oscilloscope, to check things: the mid-voltage between the LEDs was erratic and crazy. From this, I conjectured the LED bulbs were failing internally, possibly due to overheating. Replacing both the high- and low-side bulbs brought immediate relief and proper operation, but I knew it would last ...

Gordonp: /* LEDs */

2025-01-17T01:46:24Z

LEDs

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:46, 17 January 2025
Line 160:		Line 160:

	===LEDs===		===LEDs===
	So, when I mentioned above that the dial-bulbs are now operating from ~~~115VDC~~ ...		So, when I mentioned above that the dial-bulbs are now operating from ~15VDC ...
	I replaced the dial-bulbs with some ubiquitous "pinball" bulbs, meant to replace #44 and #47 incandescent bulbs. My particular LED bulbs have a diode-bridge in the base and are DC-polarity insensitive. However, they were designed to operate on 6.3VAC, not my ~8VDC :-O At first, they were great and very bright. After a while, they began to "stutter" - not really "flicker" and certainly in no relation to the ripple, but a slower, cyclical, sometimes opposite to each other. Hmmm...		I replaced the dial-bulbs with some ubiquitous "pinball" bulbs, meant to replace #44 and #47 incandescent bulbs. My particular LED bulbs have a diode-bridge in the base and are DC-polarity insensitive. However, they were designed to operate on 6.3VAC, not my ~8VDC :-O At first, they were great and very bright. After a while, they began to "stutter" - not really "flicker" and certainly in no relation to the ripple, but a slower, cyclical, sometimes opposite to each other. Hmmm...

Gordonp: /* Dial Lights "ON" when Amp is Ready */

2025-01-17T01:46:01Z

Dial Lights "ON" when Amp is Ready

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:46, 17 January 2025
Line 159:		Line 159:
	[[File:Bulb_mod_cable_lacing.jpg\|500px\|thumb\|center]]		[[File:Bulb_mod_cable_lacing.jpg\|500px\|thumb\|center]]

	==LEDs==		===LEDs===
	So, when I mentioned above that the dial-bulbs are now operating from ~115VDC ...		So, when I mentioned above that the dial-bulbs are now operating from ~115VDC ...
	I replaced the dial-bulbs with some ubiquitous "pinball" bulbs, meant to replace #44 and #47 incandescent bulbs. My particular LED bulbs have a diode-bridge in the base and are DC-polarity insensitive. However, they were designed to operate on 6.3VAC, not my ~8VDC :-O At first, they were great and very bright. After a while, they began to "stutter" - not really "flicker" and certainly in no relation to the ripple, but a slower, cyclical, sometimes opposite to each other. Hmmm...		I replaced the dial-bulbs with some ubiquitous "pinball" bulbs, meant to replace #44 and #47 incandescent bulbs. My particular LED bulbs have a diode-bridge in the base and are DC-polarity insensitive. However, they were designed to operate on 6.3VAC, not my ~8VDC :-O At first, they were great and very bright. After a while, they began to "stutter" - not really "flicker" and certainly in no relation to the ripple, but a slower, cyclical, sometimes opposite to each other. Hmmm...

Gordonp: /* Dial Lights "ON" when Amp is Ready */

2025-01-17T01:45:47Z

Dial Lights "ON" when Amp is Ready

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:45, 17 January 2025
Line 158:		Line 158:

	[[File:Bulb_mod_cable_lacing.jpg\|500px\|thumb\|center]]		[[File:Bulb_mod_cable_lacing.jpg\|500px\|thumb\|center]]

			==LEDs==
			So, when I mentioned above that the dial-bulbs are now operating from ~115VDC ...
			I replaced the dial-bulbs with some ubiquitous "pinball" bulbs, meant to replace #44 and #47 incandescent bulbs. My particular LED bulbs have a diode-bridge in the base and are DC-polarity insensitive. However, they were designed to operate on 6.3VAC, not my ~8VDC :-O At first, they were great and very bright. After a while, they began to "stutter" - not really "flicker" and certainly in no relation to the ripple, but a slower, cyclical, sometimes opposite to each other. Hmmm...

			I dug in: checked all connections, cleaned the bulb-socket contacts, bypassed all safety and thermal-timer connections and otherwise made sure the 30S-1 itself didn't generate the flicker at any point in the 12VAC circuitry. Then, I got out the oscilloscope, to check things: the mid-voltage between the LEDs was erratic and crazy. From this, I conjectured the LED bulbs were failing internally, possibly due to overheating. Replacing both the high- and low-side bulbs brought immediate relief and proper operation, but I knew it would last ...

			So - from my always-HOT side of S208 (which supplies the dial-LED bulbs) I added a 5.1V zener diode, effectively knocking the voltage down something like 5.5V actual. This results in the pair of LEDs receiving ~10V total, or ~5V across each. This reduction from 6.3VAc to 5VDC resulted in a less-bright and more-yellowish light... which I find <b>AWESOME</b>!! And I hope they'll last a very long time.

			NOTE: LEDs are "fast", and the DC I now use for the dial-bulbs isn't well-filtered. There is a subtle 120Hz flicker when I TX and the relays load this lightly-filtered DC supply. Again, the slight dimming and slight flicker in TX seems a beautiful symbolism for my 30S-1 "picking up and shouldering the load". Appropriate for the era!

Gordonp at 21:47, 30 June 2021

2021-06-30T21:47:18Z

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 __FORCETOC__
 =Raising CW Plate- and Screen-Voltages=
 Collins' reduction in High Voltage and Screen Voltage when using CW mode held back the 4CX1500B gain, and total-power.  I was almost at the point of using the SSB setting for CW (as many do), when Chet VE3CFK pointed out...
@@ Line 107: / Line 133: @@
 I bought a Variable-Voltage / Variable Frequency controller!  This V/F motor drive is ~perfect~ for the Dayton shaded-pole motor... My Plan:  slow the motor when possible and enjoy quiet-ness, then speed it up when cooling is required.  This V/F drive can be controlled with a 0-5V signal, so ... :-)
 =Thermal Overload Switch K102=

Gordonp: /* Boosting Screen Voltage */

2021-06-29T22:11:38Z

Boosting Screen Voltage

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:11, 29 June 2021
Line 123:		Line 123:

	Again, three meters show the boost for SSB, and CW. The CW Screen Voltage reading appears lower-than-expected, because these measurements are made prior to raising the Plate + Screen voltage; thus, the CW primary-winding voltage is only about 2/3 that obtained in SSB mode.		Again, three meters show the boost for SSB, and CW. The CW Screen Voltage reading appears lower-than-expected, because these measurements are made prior to raising the Plate + Screen voltage; thus, the CW primary-winding voltage is only about 2/3 that obtained in SSB mode.

			<p>
			<span>
			[[File:Screen_boost_installation.jpg\|500px\|thumb\|left\|Completed Screen Boost Installation]]

			The connections to the barrier-strip are clearly labelled; the wires are neatly laced - pretty much the way Collins might have done it :-)
			</span>
			</p>
			<br clear=all>

	=Thermal Overload Switch K102=		=Thermal Overload Switch K102=

Gordonp: /* Boosting Screen Voltage */

2021-06-29T22:08:24Z

Boosting Screen Voltage

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:08, 29 June 2021
Line 116:		Line 116:
	The boost will only come alive once the front-panel ON HV button is pressed.		The boost will only come alive once the front-panel ON HV button is pressed.
	Repeating the same (no-load) measurements as above:		Repeating the same (no-load) measurements as above:

			<gallery caption="Measuring Screen Boost Voltages" widths="400px" heights="400px" perrow="2">
			File:Screen_boost_ssb.jpg\|SSB Screen Boost - about 100VDC
			File:Screen_boost_cw.jpg\|CW Screen Boost - about 40VDC
			</gallery>

			Again, three meters show the boost for SSB, and CW. The CW Screen Voltage reading appears lower-than-expected, because these measurements are made prior to raising the Plate + Screen voltage; thus, the CW primary-winding voltage is only about 2/3 that obtained in SSB mode.

	=Thermal Overload Switch K102=		=Thermal Overload Switch K102=

Gordonp: /* Boosting Screen Voltage */

2021-06-29T22:02:12Z

Boosting Screen Voltage

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:02, 29 June 2021
Line 108:		Line 108:

	=Boosting Screen Voltage=		=Boosting Screen Voltage=

			I bought a 100VA 120V transformer, with the intention of boosting the screen voltage. This Triad FD8-120 features a pair of primary windings - I connected these windings in series for 240VAC operation, and wired them to T201 SSB terminals, with the result:
			<ul>
			<li>When the user alters the AC input-jumper, this boost will follow and operate from either 240VAC (as now), or 120VAC, just like T201</li>
			<li>This connection should give 100V screen-supply boost in SSB, and a lower 65V boost in CW, <b>IF I HAD NOT ALTERED THE SSB/CW 240VAC PRIMARY CONNECTIONS</b>. But in my particular case, the Screen Boost will always be the SSB value.</li>

			The boost will only come alive once the front-panel ON HV button is pressed.
			Repeating the same (no-load) measurements as above:

	=Thermal Overload Switch K102=		=Thermal Overload Switch K102=